Lucky's Restaurant

Lucky's in the News

Happy Go Lucky's

Cherry Street's newest dining spot offers up an array of refreshing simple dishes made with high-quality ingredients.

Even before it opened, I had a feeling Lucky's would be a hit, given its prime spot on 15th Street, the prior restaurateur experience of owners Matt and Brooke Kelley and the fact that the restaurant offers chicken-fried rabbit on the menu. When, because of the crowds, we were forced to park several blacks away the night we dined there, my suspicions were verified. The packed house and smiling diners gave it away - Lucky's is here to stay.

Not thinking, my husband, Tate, and I popped in on a bustling Friday evening without a reservation. Happy to wait at the bar for a table, we sampled a glass of wine and one of the half-dozen or so beers Lucky's offers. In addition to several dozen wines by the bottle, Lucky's offers "20 for $20," 20 different wines selling for only $20 a bottle, as well as generous selection of bio-dynamic and organic wines from smaller boutique wineries around the world. The bar hugs the back wall of the restaurant and offers almost too-comfy bar stools. Sinking down into the cushy seat, I felt a bit like a kid at the adult table. Luckily, our table was ready before we finished our drinks.

The sleek dining room, designed by Matt's father, has stained concrete floors and a neautral, warm color scheme. We were seated in the semi-private dining room, which accomodates up to 16, in bright-red chairs at a long banguette.

Matt told me the menu was a compilation of his and Brooke's favorite things - all uncomplicated dishes using the best ingredients and simple preparations. His menu also is inspired by the time he spent with Cindy Pawlcyn at Mustard's Grill in Napa Valley, where fresh, local ingredients are cooked over a wood-burning grill, as is done at Lucky's. The Kelleys, too, search out the best ingredients - line-caught fish, organic meat and locally grown organic vegetables. Matt also found a kindred spirit in chef Scott VanTuyl. Both chefs share the same vision for food, cooking and goals for the restaurant, and work well together in the kitchen.

But our dinner ... A basket of garlicky spread made with garbanzo beans, garlic and rosemary served withs moked pita bread arrived first - a nice start, and a great pairing for our pre-dinner beverages.

Next we shared the grilled flatbread ($12). The delicious crust was topped with sliced pear, fresh figs, creamy goat cheese and a drizzling of truffle oil. Fried sage leaves finished it perfectly. We also tried the seared ahi tuna ($12), a lovely plate of barely seared ruby-red tuna, sliced and served over crispy handmade crackers and topped with a sprinkling of black sesame seeds, spicy wasabi cream and a sweet ginger sauce. A tumble of micro greens finished off the dish and added a nice tender crunch.

For entrées, we settled on the crispy sea bass ($29), a large filler, perfectly seared, served over tender black beluga lentils and draped in an elegant basil and arugula cream sauce. Grilled baby carrots on the side gave the dish a nice smoky flavor.

My husband enjoyed the T-Town fillet ($32), a tender fillet of beef topped with rich and meaty wild mushrooms and roasted corn. The hit of the night was the side dish - a rich macaroni and cheese made with white cheddar from Vermont. If you are feeling indulgent, seared foie grad and pomegranate demi-glace can be added to the fillet for $9.

Desserts (all around $7) include an almond créme brulée and a rich chocolate cake, with a peppering of daily specials.

In addition to lunch and dinner, Lucky's offers a late-night menu until midnight. Sliders, flatbread and a small assortment of appetizers are available for $5 to $10.

I look forward to my next visit, when I will definitely bring more people and a long fork.